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| BEAUTY...
Proportion, color, delicacy, type, symmetry, the flash of the eye, the sweetness of the smile, and a thousand other factors contribute to make a woman beautiful. Dr. Mégane Fabre
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PHYSICAL BEAUTY
CONTENTS
WHAT IS PHYSICAL BEAUTY?
HOW TO MAKE AND KEEP THE FIGURE BEAUTIFUL
BEAUTY OF SKIN
THE FEATURES
THE HAIR
THE HANDS
THE FEET
BEAUTY AND CLOTHES
THE PLASTIC SURGEON AS A BEAUTIFIER
BEAUTY DURING MATERNITY
SPECIAL HINTS FOR THROAT AND BUST DEVELOPMENT
WHAT IS PHYSICAL BEAUTY?
FEMININE physical beauty is recognized by all mankind. Yet it has no absolutely fixed standard. The savage sees as beauties contours and
shapes which to us are hideous and distorted. Semi civilized man is apt to regard fat and weight as the
chief beauty factors. Even civilized man varies in his individual estimates. Those accepted charms
of form, face and figure, however, which appeal most to the majority of individuals, may be said to
be the nearest approach to an exact standard of beauty we have.
Proportion, color, delicacy, type, symmetry, the flash of the eye, the sweetness of the smile, and a
thousand other factors contribute to make a woman beautiful. Every woman has her special individual
beauties; some women possess a number in combination. A lovely natural complexion, delicately-
shaped hands, shapely feet and ankles, glorious hair, a noble and alluring figure, all lay a duty upon
their possessors - the duty of care and preservation. For beauty, physical as well as mental and
moral, is a virtue. It is as essential to humanity as loyalty and truth. It is, or should be, the truth of
the physical feminine being, expressed in its most perfect terms.
IDEALS OF FORM AND FACE
Whether you have the beauty of the blonde or the beauty of the brunette, the beauty of light or
the beauty of darkness, a duty is laid upon you within the scope of your own type. In form we
accept, as a general thing, the ancient Greek ideal of feminine beauty, subject to modern modifications. That is, we accept the proportions of the Venus de Medici as being nearest the modern idea
of physical perfection. We reject those of the Venus de Milo as too large, too heavy for modern comparison.
THE IDEAL FORM
There is more or less variation between the proportions of the Venus de Medici and those of the average young woman of to-day.
Do not be disturbed if these measurements do not correspond to your own ideal. They are only
approximate; suggestive. Your figure taken as a whole may be admirable, yet vary in detail proportion. And such variations may harmonize and make for charm. These tables, however, offer a
practical standard for comparison. They will help show where you need development.
Woman's face and form are the most exquisite of all that has been created. They combine all the
charms of color, harmony, grace, refinement and magnetism. And they reflect the higher attributes
of mind and soul. Even the deformed and disfigured may cultivate physical beauty to some
degree. Make the most of each and every charm you, individually, may possess. Such is the gospel
of this book. If its teachings be followed, power beauty's choicest secret-will be your reward.
DEFINITE BEAUTIES OF SHAPE AND FEATURE
Black hair and a snowy complexion, with a proportionate head and forehead, the hair crisp and
plentiful, with evenly penciled eyebrows, give a fine type. Jealousy and a quick temper are indicated
where the eyebrows meet. They should be well divided, taper evenly and broaden more in the
middle. Too small an ear denotes avarice. The ear should not be too prominent, though, and delicate in outline. Cheek bones should be neither too far apart nor so prominent as to attract attention,
A straight nose of moderate size is the most desirable. A large but shapely nose, however, is to be
preferred to a small shapeless one. Too small a nose means a vacillating disposition.
The mouth should be of medium largeness, rosy and flexible, and with nether and upper lips of
equal size, neither too thin, nor yet too full. Sound, white, medium-sized teeth and a firm, agreeably
rounded chin, its lower outline showing determination, are the best. A long neck, curving gracefully at the nape, enlarging as it descends toward the shoulders, and seeming whiter and clearer in
outline as it approaches the bosom, is a standard. White, firm shoulders, moderate in breadth, with
a collar bone well-covered with flesh, a bosom transparently white, and round, firm, well-modeled
breasts of medium size cannot be improved upon. To be preferred are firm, gracefully curved and
rounded arms, elbows well covered with adipose tissue, and dimpled, hands which do not join the
arms too abruptly; as well as well-fleshed, yet slender wrists, which do not display the wrist bones
prominently. The best fingers are those proportionate to the length of the palm, soft and tapering
toward the nails, the latter faintly pink and almond-shaped, their length conforming to the length of
the finger. The ideal waist is one not contracted by too tight a corset. The proper measure for the
ideal waist is twice the size of the neck. The hips should be broader than the shoulders. They should
grow rounder and narrower as they descend. The legs should be long and straight.
Length and straightness are especially desirable from hips to knees, for grace and ease of appearance when
walking. A dimple on the knee is an added charm. Both knees should be plump, with a soft and white
skin. The feet should be proportionate to the remainder of the body, firm, white and elastic.
The Golden Blonde, or the Flaxen-Haired Blonde, with a clear, white complexion and blue
or hazel eyes, is a choice type of feminine beauty. The Ruddy or Auburn Blonde, with dark or gray
eyes is another. The Florid Brunette is still an other especially lovely type. Clear gray eyes which
emotion turns almost black are probably the most magnetic. They are at their best when accompanied
by a clear complexion and dark, wavy hair. A lithe, well-rounded form, graceful, yet not so plump
as to be called voluptuous, deserves all admiration and usually obtains it.
BEAUTY AND HEALTH
Beauty and health go hand in hand. Your skin, your hair, your figure, if not healthy, rob your
loveliest features of their charm. Make health the cornerstone of an intelligent study and cultivation
of every iota of beauty which you have. Physical beauty, in the best sense, means well-rounded physi-
cal development on a health basis. On this basis cultivate your especial physical advantages. If you
have a perfectly shaped foot and ankle, then "put your best foot forward" in this respect. If beauty
be truly "skin-deep," then all the more are skin and complexion worth caring for. If you have naturally
heavy or beautifully tinted hair, then make your hair your "crowning glory."
There is a certain charm due to disease. But it should be remembered that it is not a normal one.
It is more apt to call forth pity than love. Charm should mean natural attraction. Though there is
a beauty in the sudden, hectic flush of the consumptive, it is the morbid beauty of death. It can
wake only sorrow, and does not attract as does the soft, rosy blush of health.
BEAUTY BEFORE AND AFTER MARRIAGE
Before marriage all girls usually make the most of their physical charms. Beauty is woman's age-
old and legitimate lure to attract a life companion of the other sex. Nature helps the young girl with
the gift of youth, and as a rule she is willing to aid Nature in making the most of it. But many a
young woman, once married, grows careless about the care of the hair, hands, skin and figure. She
neglects her person and her clothes, and tends to become a slovenly household drudge.
Now physical beauty is a definite part of the feminine sex appeal.* And a happy marriage depends largely on
a normal and happy sex appeal on the part of the woman, and corresponding sex interest on the part
of the man. In neglecting your own physical charm, you are encouraging lack of interest in your
husband. A husband may for some time not notice the change. Sooner or later, however, meeting
other women, he will make comparisons. He will suddenly realize that his wife no longer appears
young and beautiful as when first he married her. And he may turn to some other woman for the
charm his wife no longer supplies.
The intelligent woman gives some time each day
to the "keeping up" of her quota of personal charms. Youth and beauty are largely a matter of
good mental and physical condition. Every woman should study how to keep her youth and beauty.
Try to improve upon what Nature has given you! Fill in and round out the omissions of which she
may have been guilty! This is not alone your right, it is your duty. It is commendable, not a
matter for apology. Be beautiful in middle life. You may even be beautiful in old age. Hold your
husband's affection and admiration. "Beauty Culture" is a good and legitimate thing if not over-
done, and natural charm may with perfect propriety be enhanced or placed in relief. Every
woman should have a knowledge of the practical facts which make for her physical beauty. It is
to supply these facts that this little volume has been written.
HOW TO MAKE AND KEEP THE FIGURE BEAUTIFUL
(Back to Top of Page)
DIET
DIET and exercise are the two main essentials in making and keeping the figure beautiful.
No woman can reduce weight, improve a clumsy and ungainly figure, through exercise alone. Diet
comes first. Comparatively few women need fattening. What most need is reduction.
FIRST AID FOR THE THIN
Yet for those whose figure needs building up and filling out, the following facts should be borne
in mind. First, relax mentally. Worry and nervous tension use up calories-the calorie is the unit
by which we measure heat and food-very rapidly, and tend to reduce weight below normal. Secondly,
sleep enough and breathe fresh air in plenty. Third, exercise, to stimulate the appetite and aid
all the organs of the body to do their work. Fourth, eat more of the foods that are high in food value.
Butter, sugar, cream and cream sauce on vegetables, cod-liver oil and olive oil, are all fattening.
FIRST AID FOR THE FAT
Do not, if you are fat and wish to reduce your figure in accord with the normal and ideal body
measurements already given, cultivate fallacies. Shun anti-fat patent medicines and quack "cures."
Often they are based on mercury, arsenic or thyroid extract. Shun Epsom salts baths and too
many Turkish baths. They do harm and no good. The reduction of calories is the real secret of
successful fat reduction, and a key to that unit of measurement will enable you to bring your figure
within the proper limits, to keep your figure beautiful.
The whole point is to know how many calories
of food you need per day. Now, normally, a woman who does not "work" in any actual sense
of the word, can do with 1,600 to 1,800 calories per day. If she follows some sedentary occupation,
2,000 to 2,200 calories will suffice her. If her business requires walking, standing or any lighter
manual labor, she can run her calorie allowance up to 2,500. If she performs hard physical labor, she
is entitled to 2,500 to 3,000 calories. All this is normally speaking. But if you are too fat, if you wish to bring back
your figure to its rightful lines, you must know what your ideal net weight should be in order to cut off
the number of calories of food you do not need.
To find the adult net weight, multiply the num-
ber of inches you stand in height over 5 ft. without shoes, by 51/2, then add no. If you are 5 ft. 7 in. tall:
7x5 1/2= 38 1/2 inches add 110 Resulting net weight 148 1/2 lbs. If you are under five feet, then multiply the
number of inches below five feet by 51/2, and subtract from no.
The next thing to do is to multiply your nor-
mal weight by the number of calories you need daily per pound. If you weight 230 or 123 pounds,
and the rule for your height shows your weight should be 150 pounds, then 150 ought to be the
number you should use. This makes the problem simple. If your right weight ought to be 150 pounds, calling for 2,250 calories a day, cut off from
500 calories (about two ounces of fat, a reduction of 4 pounds a month, or 48 pounds a year) to 1,000
calories (about 8 pounds per month, or 96 pounds a year). To gain, reverse the procedure.
Among the kinds of food, note that Proteins,
which build tissue and yield energy, may store fat. Proteins are contained in meat, fish, fowl, nuts,
milk, cheese, vegetables. Fats (animal fats, oils, chocolate, nuts) are stored by the body as fat. So are Carbohydrates (sugars, starches, including
bread, cereals, potatoes, corn, etc.). Vitamins, food substances needed for growth, occur in animal fats, but not in vegetable ones, as also in eggs, milk,
butter and meat, vegetable outer skins, grain germs and fruits.
BALANCE IN DIET
These kinds of food must be balanced. If you balance them properly, you can reduce your figure
to normal without injuring health or keeping to a monotonous food diet. Proteins you must eat, but
neither to excess nor the reverse. And you must eat Vitamins, which abound in non-fattening vegetables and fruits. Do not be afraid of drinking plenty of water. But do not exceed your calorie allowance. Without further theory we advise the
woman who wishes to eat and grow thin to avoid the following liquids and foods.
THE "KEEP OFF" SIGN FOR THE STOUT
Shun water during meals-it makes you eat more. Drink all you want between meals. Rich
sodas must be avoided. But coffee in moderation and skim milk are not harmful. Beer, in pre-amendment days, was sometimes termed "liquid
bread." But every fat woman should know that all alcoholic drinks make her fatter if she be fat and
thinner if she be thin, thus serving no good purpose. Each bit of food you eat beyond what your
system and your normal weight, figure and calorie requirements demand, is fattening. Candy, pie,
cakes, ice cream, whipped cream, candied sweet potatoes, cheese, rice, butter, fresh and white bread,
rich meats, thick gravies and nuts are fattening. "Keep off" fried foods, bacon, ham, pork, and all
things made of flour, macaroni, dried beans, puddings, pastries and custards. But there are excel-
lent beefsteak or lean meat, fruit and milk diets, the fruit diet especially being excellent for reduction. An occasional fast day, or certain days of low caloric eating a week are also good.
A rapid
method to reduce the over plus of calories is a diet of baked potatoes and a glass of skim milk, three
times daily, for a week at a time. Or, instead of fasting altogether for a day, drink a glass of butter-
milk every three hours. Again, small helpings of favorite fattening foods, or the dropping of one
thing for another, will help attain the end-which is the reduction of your calorie over plus. This is
the whole secret of reducing fat and bringing the figure to its normal physical best, its legitimate
beauty of outline, where diet is concerned.
WHAT THE OBESE CAN EAT
A number of excellent books which deal in great detail with the different ways of controlling the
calories, of reducing weight and fat, are easily available. We have gone into some details our-
selves, although diet and fat reduction is here only considered in its relation to physical beauty. In
the books already mentioned, numerous "sample menus," etc., will be found. Foods you can eat,
and still feel you are not betraying your figure, include:
(1) Any meat or game, save pig.
(2) All
seafood, including lobster.
(3) Fruit, with the exception of grapes and bananas.
(4) Salads and
meat jellies.
(5) Tomatoes, peppers, olives, celery, cucumber, chili sauce and Worcestershire.
(6) All fruit desserts.
EXERCISE
Diet is unquestionably the first essential in restoring a physical beauty of form which has de-
generated, running either to obesity or over-thinness. Exercise is the great
maintainer of physical beauty in woman. Proper diet and proper exercise mean
health, and health is a fundamental thing in beauty. Troubles of the stomach and
intestines, poor circulation and other ills, which reflect on your physique, are helped or prevented by exercise. First of all comes right breathing-
which means no tight corsets-breathing from the abdomen. Deep breathing underlines all exercise.
It keeps the chest muscles up to the mark and increases expansion, which in the normal woman
should be 3 inches. Every woman should take her setting-up exercises in the morning on rising.
GENERAL EXERCISES FOR ENERGY AND CARRIAGE
For the simple energy exercises which should start the day: Deep breathing, with alternate extension
of right and left foot, and relaxation. Ditto, with stretching of right and left thigh, and relaxation.
Ditto, with stretching of right and left hand, arm and shoulder. Then, deep breathing with chest
expansion, abdomen expansion and body stretching. The exercises should be carried out in one,
two, three rhythm and count. Then, after a cold bath, should come the regular
exercise drill of the day. These general exercises should never be neglected.
Specific exercises for
fat reduction, if time is lacking, may be carried out later. The "Daily Dozen" exercises of Walter
Camp, (Pub. by the Reynolds Publishing Co.) invented for use in the army, are excellent for
general use. They lay a muscle corset about the waist, and do wonders for shoulder, back and chest
muscles. Use the "Daily Dozen" and you will be able to cut your low-neck dresses as low as you like. They take ten minutes to carry out.
Chinning Exercises-"Chinning" exercises pull up the weight of the body by the arms; by means
of a simple, fixed bar within the reach of the arms, and improve the muscles of upper arm, front and
back of shoulders and chest. Exercises in bending the back relieve back fatigue.
Abdominal exercises
(lying flat on back and rising to a sitting position, keeping legs down, with forward flex, bending
body at hips) should not be forgotten. They are very important, as the muscles exercised support
the vital organs. Thigh exercises (rising from squatting position, hands on hips, knees bent
to make thigh form right angle with trunk, again squatting, and repeating) are mainly for energy.
But calf and leg muscles benefit materially by any rising-on-the-toes exercise. Further toe-circling,
"windmill," bending exercises for suppleness and grace should also be practiced.
What These Exercises Do-These simple exercises and their variations will prevent you from
becoming round-shouldered. They will give your backbone a normal curve, and prevent what used
to be known as the "debutante slouch." They lend carriage, graceful action and position to the body.
They correct a hanging head, relaxed chest, sagging abdomen. Carriage is next in beauty to form,
in a way, because it presents form to the best advantage. Special exercises for the development of
special muscles you may easily evolve yourself, by varying the general basic forms. Remember that
exercise and diet must work together for physical improvement.
Fat-Reducing Exercises-Always take medical
advice before entering on a course of special fat-reducing exercise. It must not be too severe. To
reduce the bust stand straight, hands on hips. Move the elbows back till they meet. Then, stretching
out your arms in front of you, the palms of the hands meeting, raise the arms above the head, again
stretch them out, and return, slowly. There are excellent weight reduction exercises among the
"Daily Dozen" (Wave, Weave, Crouch, Curl, Crawl, Grasp, etc.).
Thigh, toe-circling and back-
bending exercises cover hip reduction. Lying full length on the floor, legs close, arms raised above the
head, and rolling over completely, ten times in succession, reversing to prevent dizziness, is one of
the most "resultful" hip-reducing exercises you can take.
FAT REDUCTION IN GENERAL
In general women between twenty and thirty may reduce fat more rapidly than those past thirty.
Flesh, too, is often put on greatly after childbirth, usually because of sedentary habits. Avoid them.
After forty-five fat reduction by exercise is not without danger. "Honest sweat," not "Turkish
bath sweat," cuts down fat. Not the sweat produced by rubber garments, hot bathing, or electric light
cabinets, makes you less obese, but that of physical activity.
Where heart trouble, kidney or other
strain precludes a woman's taking exercise, muscle manipulation by electricity, electrical massage, is
valuable. The true, scientific means that will give the best results in most cases, is the combination of
systematic exercises and regulated diet-avoiding fats and carbohydrates as far as possible.
SPORTS AS DEVELOPERS OF PHYSICAL BEAUTY
Sports, followed normally, make for womanly beauty. Swimming, perhaps, comes first. It trains
and gives control of every muscle of the body, and control of all the muscles means beauty of carriage.
It stimulates torpid livers and inactive kidneys, and prevents constipation. It washes out the rolls of
fat from the waist, and develops neck and chest. The auto has unfortunately decreased woman's
indulgence in horseback riding. A good horsewoman always carries herself well, and riding gives
special training to the muscles of back and thighs. Dancing coordinates all the body movements. It
helps preserve youth as well as grace, beauty and strength.
Tennis, when not too strenuous, is a
splendid form of sport and exercise combined. Indoor golf, is of course, only a shadow of outdoor
golf. It is good, but the latter is far better. Its great advantage is giving exercise in the sun and
air. Hockey, baseball, running, hurdling, jumping, are all sport forms of exercise now open to women,
especially the college girl, and all have their value. Basketball strengthens every part of the body and
stimulates the circulation. Bowling is a good anti-fat exercise, and develops the muscles of the trunk
and arms. All winter sports-skating, tobogganing, skiing-make for poise and muscular coordination.
BEAUTY OF SKIN
(Back to Top of Page)
BEAUTY OF SKIN
THE perfect skin goes far to make a woman look beautiful. The late Lillian Russell, who
had a perfect complexion, declared that "soap and water" was its secret. But even when there are
blackheads, blotches, pimples, a sallow, mothy or greasy skin, and this simple specific fails, there is a
cure. There art different types of skin beauty. We have the baby pink and white, transparent skin;
there is the "peaches and cream" complexion; or the creamy brunette skin, and many variants. Your
business is to make your own particular type of skin and complexion look their best.
Health again comes first as a good skin requisite, health born of exercise, wholesome food, plenty of
soap and water. The hygiene of the skin reflects the general hygiene of the body. Take care of the
skin locally. Avoid the direct rays of the sun; avoid exposure to wind, and dirt, lest your skin
turn coarse and rough. Water does not injure the skin, nor dry out its natural oils.
Use soft water
for cleaning face and hands. (If the water you have available is hard, soften with salt, borax or
baking soda.) Add bran or a quarter cup of almond meal to make water more soothing to a tender skin.
If chapping results from too warm a bath, tepid water, a soft soap, plus olive oil massage or toilet
powder will remedy it. Cold water in the morning (it stimulates) and warm water at night is a good
washing rule. Never use a cheap, but always a good soap. Castile preferably. Green soap (potash
soap) is meant for oily scalps and only irritates dry skins. Though medicated soaps are useful for some
skin diseases, they should be used only on a doctor's orders. Thorough, careful drying lends color to the
cheeks and increases circulation, and cream and powder are good skin protectors if rightly used and
removed.
If the skin has been exposed to sun or wind, rub cold cream well into it. Then remove
with a damp cloth, and follow by washing in cold water. Vanishing cream, greaseless, is a good face
powder foundation, and a skin protector. Always remove cream from the face before
going to bed, and in general use it only every alternate day. No complexion stands cream day
in, day out, nor does cream take the place of soap and water. Cream, if not removed, clogs the skin
pores. Clogged pores mean blackheads, and blackheads cause other skin affections. Clogged pores,
too, are responsible for yellow, sallow complexions.
SKIN FOODS AND POWDER
In general avoid cosmetics. They block up the pores and tend to enlarge them. Of cold creams
there are numerous good sorts - vaseline cold cream, olive oil, rose ointment, lemon cream-these
all come under the same head. Do not try to make your own skin food; buy a standard preparation.
Oily skins shine unless cold cream be used on them under powder.
Cologne may be used after a cold-
cream cleaning to do away with the greasy condition. Skin foods are applied in facial massage to
cleanse and tone up the skin, do away with deposits of fat and wrinkles, and beautify skin quality.
Powder protects the skin from the sun, is cooling and absorbs surplus oil. Cosmetic powders are not
supposed to act in the guise of plaster-of-Paris masks, to completely hide the features. That many
girls entertain this notion, however, is clear to anyone who has walked on the thoroughfares of New
York or other large American cities. Powder should always be lightly applied and removed at
night.
Talcum (French chalk) and starch are the base of all good cosmetic powders. Never use
powders containing lead or bismuth. Scent or its absence is a matter of taste. Do not forget that
ordinary toilet powder is meant for the skin of the body and is too coarse for facial use. When it
comes to using face powder remember that moderation means charm.
TOILET WATERS AND PERFUMES
The employ of toilet waters and perfumes is an individual matter. A suspicion, a hint of a delicately
elusive odor about the skin is very agreeable. But never, never use a cheap toilet water in your bath!
The newer scented bath salts are preferred by many women to toilet water. A tablespoon of
some scented bath salt in a tub of warm water, and the faint, charmingly elusive odor which seems to
be a specialty of so many attractive women is easily acquired.
Perfume is often sinned against in use.
A fresh, graceful, attractive girl or woman who reeks of perfume destroys the effect of her other
physical attractions. And the woman who is too highly perfumed always arouses suspicion. Has she
applied the perfume so lavishly in order to conceal some less fragrant odor?
SKIN DISEASES AND THEIR CURE
Chapping we have already touched upon. Oily skin, often accompanied by enlarged pores, black-
heads and pimples, should be treated before worse ensues. Use a soap made of a cup of oatmeal or
boiled oats, a pinch of sulphur, a pinch of powdered benzoin, and a teaspoonful of Castile soap, shaved
fine, mixed, in a small cheesecloth bag. An application in warm water twice a day, should correct the oily tendency.
Sunburn and Freckles. Four lotions:
1. Two teaspoonfuls of benzoin in pint of cold water. Bathe
face night and morning.
2. Mix flour of sulphur with milk, and rub into skin when the mixture has
settled a couple of hours. To be applied in small quantities daily.
3. One drachm muriatic acid, to
which half-teaspoon of spirits of lavender has been added.
4. Three drachms carbonate of potassium,
two drachms common salt, eight ounces rosewater, a little orange or lavender flower water. Mix and make frequent applications.
Freckles - Two lotions:
1. One ounce lemon juice, one pint rosewater. Apply to skin four,
five or six times a day.
2. One drachm muriatic acid, half teaspoonful spirits of lavender, one pint
rainwater. Apply carefully to freckles, using camel's-hair brush.
Blackheads.-It is not well to steam out blackheads. It does cleanse the skin and the black-
heads have to go. But it also relaxes the skin, and brings forth a crop of early wrinkles. Better is
the use of one of the following lotions.
1. One and one-quarter ounces of Green soap, two and one-half drachms alcohol, two and one-
half drachms glycerine, one and one-half drachms borax.
2. Two and a half drachms rosewater, two and a half drachms spirits of lavender, two and a
half ounces alcohol. After they have been rubbed in, the blackheads may be removed with a watch
key. Never risk infection by squeezing out blackheads with the fingers. Once they are removed, close the pores with alcohol.
Pimples and Blotches.- An absolutely clean skin has no pimples. Hence the cleaner your skin, the
less likely pimples are to appear. Women are more apt to have pimples than men, but are also more
skilled in removing them. "Acne" is a spread of pimples due to improper blood conditions. It
usually occurs during puberty, and calls for medical treatment. The use of salves is not recommended
and though carbolated vaseline tends to dry pimples up, it increases oily skin conditions. A purely surface pimple, after an alcohol wipe, may have
its head (the little yellow point) pricked. After the pus has been squeezed out, clean with a bit of
cotton soaked in alcohol. The use of warm water
and Ivory soap with a flesh brush, rinsing with cold water (and after drying, steaming the face
every fourth day), should cause pimples to disappear. A grateful and healing lotion, too, may be
made by mixing an ounce of tincture of haxnamelis with an equal amount of warm water, and applying frequently.
Tan and Moth Spots.-Too many coats of tan- Nature's skin protection against sunburn - coarsen
the skin. The so-called "moth spots," brown spots or patches which appear after middle life, are due
to this tan pigment. Any lotion which is efficacious for freckles is good for tan. A teaspoonful of
milk, to which a little common salt has been added, may be applied at night and washed off in the
morning. Another good lotion is made up of two ounces of lemon juice, a half drachm of borax,
powdered, one drachm of powdered white sugar. It should stand for several days before using, then
be applied as in the preceding case. A mixture of lemon juice and carbonate of magnesia is also
valuable in correcting skin discolorations. It should be allowed to remain some time after it has been applied to the skin.
Warts and Moles.-Moth spots are only "bleached" by these lotions, and usually
have to be removed by the specialist. A good dermatologist can easily remove the
small, brown moles which are often encountered. An old-fashioned remedy, yet one
which "works," is: when the mole protrudes enough, to wind a hair tightly around
it. If the hair is allowed to remain, the mole gradually detaches itself and falls off. Small moles should be at once removed, lest they grow larger. The same
applies to raised, colorless moles. Red moles should never be touched. Cancer often results if an at-
tempt be made to remove them. Warts are usually harmless. They are apt to
disappear of their own accord. In general, your family physician or a skin specialist of standing
should be consulted for any serious skin disorder. Avoid the common run of beauty doctors, and the
"home treatment" salves and ointments, for all troubles that go beyond tan, sunburn, freckles, pimples, blackheads and chapping.
THE FEATURES
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AMONG the features, the eyes, "the windows of the soul," might be given first place, though
every feature of the face has its share in establishing facial beauty and charm.
THE EYES
The eyes reflect good or bad health conditions as quickly as the rest of the
body. Dark circles around the eyes mean weakness or ill-health. Eye-strain
visibly betrays weariness. And certain defects show at once. Drooping lids hide the "speaking" quality of the glance. Thin eyelashes and
eyebrows make the eyes look strange. Color and "setting," the way the eyes are set in their sockets,
cannot be altered, but clearness of health and wealth of expression reflect right diet, sleep, exercise and fresh air.
The eyes should always be washed in tepid water, and dried with a soft towel. Eyestrain is a
matter for the oculist, and, in general, an eyewash should be used only on prescription, unless when
a cinder is removed. Boracic acid is a popular wash, but oculists declare its constant use harmful.
Eye Exercise.-For puffiness and discoloration exercise the eyeball by rolling it. Also rhythmically tap
the skin around the closed eye. The naturally tearful should refrain from weeping, as this dims the eye
and robs it of its fire. For eye circulation, lower and raise the upper without moving the lower lid, a num-
ber of times, keeping the glance fixed straight ahead. Or look up, down, right and left, ten times in succession, every way.
Massage of the circular muscle around the eye is also excellent for strengthening.
Lashes and Brows.-Rubbing with vaseline or olive oil encourages a scant growth of lashes and
eyebrows. Pull out all scraggly hairs that are loose, fine-comb lashes and brows regularly, and do
not leave powder in them. Remember that to make the eyes look wider and fuller a tiny touch of
black in the corners is effective. Do not, however be too free with the eyelash pencil. And do not
use a black pencil if your hair is brown, use a brown one. Blonde eyelashes and eyebrows are
not beautiful, as a rule, and it is permissible to darken them.
THE NOSE
Even a crooked nose may be straightened by persistent manipulation during childhood, but this will
not avail much in later life. If your nose be oily or shiny, bathe occasionally with weak borax water, or
dust with rice powder, prepared chalk or magnesium. Do not cultivate a scornful attitude toward life in
general. It finds its unbeautiful physical reflex in a habitual elevation of the nostrils in a most disagreeable manner.
THE EARS
Clean outer ears and clean inner ears must be your rule. If the outer ear is clean, the inner ear
will not get dirty. And, incidentally, better a trip to the aurist at regular intervals, than a boil in the
inner ear. If your ears jut out, wear an earcap at night. A marked improvement will soon result.
Too red or too white ears (the extreme colorations usually being due to poor circulation) can
be improved by massage. In general, hairdressing will cover most defects of ugly ears. "Cauliflower"
ears, however, call for a "plastic surgeon." He is the only one who can help you.
MOUTH AND TEETH
Teeth are an outstanding beauty of women-though, not so, of course, if they stand out too far
or too prominently. A good prophylactic brush, not too stiff if your gums are tender, a good dental
powder or paste, a daily once-over with dental floss, plus regular periodic visits to the dentist
(twice a year at least) should keep your teeth in shape. Sores, save the harmless and passing
"fever sore," on mouth and lips, should send you straight to the doctor-a mouth sore may be an
indication of a very serious disease. The small "canker" sore, a little local ulcer, will soon disappear if touched several times a day with a nitrate-of-silver pencil.
THE LIPS
The lips should have a natural rose hue-but at times the lipstick has to help out forgetful Nature.
Now the lipstick cannot be considered unless in its relation to rouge. Most people use rouge paste
badly-and while using rouge is no crime, using it badly is-because they do so without consideration
for their own natural color. What is more ridiculous than to see a woman flush through her rouge,
and present on one and the same cheek two distinct shades of color, real and artificial. The rouge used
for the face-it should be applied rather high on the cheeks, and shaded off gradually-should be
matched by the shade used on the lips. Hence, let your lipstick match your rouge exactly. Most
women need no lipstick-not that this prevents their using one. Harelip is entirely curable by operation.
THE BREATH
A sweet breath from a clean mouth-that is the ideal. Indigestion is in the main responsible for
an offensive breath or a coated tongue. Dietary care and regular visits to the dentist should prevent
a "baited" breath from developing. No washes can entirely hide an offensive breath. It betrays
itself at the most inauspicious times. It slays the delight of a lover's kiss with its miasmic exhalation.
Powdered charcoal is a good antiseptic, so is a weak Listerine solution. Or, drink half a glass of
water in which five drops of tincture of myrrh have been dissolved. If bad breath proceeds from a
sour stomach, a spoonful of ordinary baking soda in water, sipped at intervals, will help. In addition
are all the little mint and peppermint tablets, "Life-Savers," etc., and the breath sweeteners. But these
are palliatives. Good health of the stomach and cleanliness of the mouth are the real cure.
THE CHIN
One chin is enough! Double and triple chins certainly do not add to your facial charm. To
avoid neck slack and double and triple chins, massage up and down, not crossways, rubbing not too
vigorously. Sagging muscles are usually responsible for double chins. These may also be reduced by
the use of the chin reducer, together with practicing neck-strengthening exercises. A gentle cold
cream working up from the upper lip and mouth corners to the temporary muscles in rotary motion,
in massage, followed by inflating the cheeks (with ten further upward strokes at a time, covering the
entire cheek) will do away with the thinness which makes such an impression of age.
THE HAIR
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HEALTH, strength and beauty of hair depends primarily on its nerve vigor
and the good circulation of the oily scalp secretion which gives it gloss and luster. Beauty is not so much a matter of
color where hair is concerned. If your hair has a fine glow, a rich sheen, is thick and long, it will be
beautiful irrespective of its pigmentation. Hair often makes an otherwise plain person beautiful.
And practically every woman, if she cares to make the effort, may have beautiful hair.
SOME HAIR HINTS
If you have the least suspicion of a curl in your hair, brushing around rather than straight will bring it out.
Do not worry if you shed your hair. It is natural for the hair to shed - and to keep right on
growing in again. Only see to it that the in-growth is equal to the loss by shedding.
No young girl should use a rat. Metal combs should be tabooed. Keep the hairbrush you use for
dandruff stiff, the "polishing" brush may be softer.
Use a hair net that matches your own hair color,
and do not get too small a one. Remove snarls and tangles in the hair gently, with fingers, before
brushing. The three-weekly or monthly shampoo is a good rule. If you wash your hair too often, it
will turn dry and brittle and change color. The hair should never be worn "done
up" constantly. This is injurious because every part of the hair should have frequent air and sun baths.
For normal shampoo employ Castile, tar or vegetable soaps, and Green soap for oily hair. A good
egg shampoo may be made of an egg, thoroughly beaten, one tablespoon alcohol, four ounces bay
rum, a pinch of borax, and four ounces of Castile soap mixed in a pint of hot water, to be used when cool.
Hair that is blonde or ruddy, as well as gray hair, may be washed with Castile soap jelly plus
a quarter-teaspoonful of borax. Always comb and brush thoroughly, with finger-tip massage. After
shampooing is the best time for scalp massage, hair pulling and skin loosening.
DRY SHAMPOO AND SCALP MASSAGE
The scalp and hair should be cleansed between shampoos. For this purpose the "dry shampoo" is
necessary. It is actually a form of scalp massage. Preparations of orris, corn meal and other dry
shampoo powders are not recommended. They stick, and it is hard to get them out of the hair. A vigorous rubbing of the scalp after the hair has been parted, using a small piece of muslin over the tip
of the finger, is best. Hot and cold applications are good, with or without shampoo, especially if
the hair is falling. Remember that the hair should not be "hot-air" dried. The hot-air cone used for
the purpose in hairdressing establishments destroys the hair.
Human hair should always be dried by hand.
Scalp massage makes the hair grow and prevents many hair troubles. A five-minute finger-tip massage, night and morning, is the one ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure. The electrical massage
by a professional (after a shampoo), the violet ray, and the rubber-disk
vibrator are all excellent for the hair. They strengthen and stimulate.
HAIR TONICS
Massage is the first and best hair tonic. Though a good scalp lotion may stimulate circulation, massage always does so more directly. In general it will be wise to remember that tonics are meant for
specific purposes of cure for hair disorders, rather than for common use. A little refined beef marrow
rubbed gently into the hair roots is a good natural tonic (though an old-fashioned one) and together
with plenty of fresh air and sunshine, does more for the hair than all the compounded tonics and
"restorers" marketed. Every woman can keep her hair in good condition if she chooses to. If she
cannot give it attention in the morning she should do so at night.
HAIR OR HAT?
Which do you value most? If it be your hair then guard against the tight hat.
The tight hat is extremely harmful. It cuts off the circulation and keeps away the fresh air the hair needs. Always see
that your hat is big enough to be worn with comfort, and that it is sufficiently porous to allow your hair to obtain an airing.
HAIR TROUBLES
Most hair troubles could be prevented in the start by ordinary good care of the hair, and the
maintenance of the state of general good health. Of course, various diseases affect the hair: fever
dries it out and makes it fall; syphilis and other sex diseases poison and destroy it. Some skin diseases have the same effect. In general, if you are healthy, broadly speaking, your hair will be healthy too.
Dandruff-What we have to deal with in dandruff is a horny layer cast off by the scalp. This layer
thickens, closes the pores, diminishes the hair's oil supply, and prevents the perspiration glands from
getting rid of waste. Soon the hair loses tone and color, and is covered with whitish powder. Then it
starts to itch and fall. In an advanced state of the disease, the hair falls out, and blood crusts form on
the scalp as a result of scratching. Digestive disorders, toxic elements in the blood or local irritation may cause dandruff, and it is communicable. Daily care of the scalp, massage and brushing,
if persisted in when the disorder first appears, are very beneficial. The crude oil massage of the
scalp, not the hair, is excellent and often effects a cure. A massage every night, using vaseline or
olive oil, together with repeated shampoos, also helps to do away with dandruff.
Although pomades
in general should be avoided, a pomade with a precipitated sulphur base, mixed with glycerine, rose-
water, lanoline, and soap, or a sulphur ointment or cream kills the dandruff germ.
There is an "oily dandruff," also, though the disease is most commonly a dry scalp one. Shampoo
with tincture of Green soap should cure this type of the disease in about a week's time. If you have
dandruff, observe a regular diet, and stick as much as possible to milk and fresh fruit.
Falling Hair.- An acid condition of the blood
encourages the hair to fall. Correct it and you will
have removed the cause of your complaint. The
use of the violet ray and the vibrator, which hold
down the tendency to an oily scalp, is also valuable
for hair treatment in this connection. So, too, are
hot and cold applications.
HAIR DISEASES WHICH SHOULD NOT OCCUR
Favus, the development of yellow scalp crusts,
accompanied by severe itching, bald spots and a
musty odor, is a dirt disease, hence inexcusable in a woman, unless as a result
of infection. To re- move it the scalp must be soaked in olive oil for a few
days, carbolic acid being mixed with it in a weak solution, the hair pulled out
of the most infected areas, the crusts removed, and the whole
scalp shampooed with an antiseptic soap.
Ringworm is usually a gift of those evil things,
the "common property" comb and brush, or the
patent hair clipper. Rubbing with sulphur ointment, washing with bichloride
soap, or painting with iodine, to precede the application of a cleansing ointment, is the treatment. It is dangerous
since it may result in baldness.
Head lice (which may be cured by saturating the hair with kerosene or crude
petroleum at night, wrapping in a towel to retain fumes, and following by
antiseptic soap shampoo) is a most disgusting trouble, and unless communicated
cannot occur except as a result of neglect and uncleanliness. The
possibility of contagion constitutes the menace of all
three of these diseases.
HAIR THAT GROWETH WHERE IT LISTETH
A luxuriant growth of hair is a blessing and a
mark of beauty. But a luxuriant growth of hair
where hair should not grow is a curse. Woman's
charm suffers from hair growing on the chin, the
upper lip (the "bearded" or mustachioed lady is
rightly regarded as a freak), on the sides of the
face, on the arms, in the armpits and on the legs.
The trouble with using depilatories is that they
contain such strong chemicals that while removing
the superfluous hair, they injure the skin. Depilation, too, is a kind of
shaving, and hence the hair returns more strongly and thickly. The X-ray is also
too powerful a medium for removing superfluous hair. It not only kills the hair
roots, and no hair grows again where it has passed, but it also destroys the
subcutaneous glands. It is best, if possible, to avoid these methods of
superfluous hair destruction, and use electrolysis. Though sometimes a number of
treatments are needed, it will permanently destroy the hair roots, and though
slow and expensive (for it must be done by a skilled dermatologist, to avoid
scars) it is sure. A bleaching lotion composed of peroxide of hydrogen with
an added drop of ammonia is good for diurnal application when retiring. The bleaching makes the un-
welcome hairs less noticeable, and gradually prevents
their growing. Forget that there are such things as
tweezers in this connection! If you do not, you will
be surprised how quickly you come into a heritage
of dark, coarse hair.
Just because chorus girls have to shave their legs
and underarms, is no reason why women in general
should turn up their nose at the practice. No
young girl or matron wishes to appear in bathing
costume with a generous covering of dark hair
on her bare legs. Shave your legs, for here the
razor gives the best results! Soaking the legs
in warm water, and then rubbing them with pumice
stone is a long process. It may "discourage" the
hair, but then the hair may take years before it
becomes properly discouraged. And the bathing
seasons go by quickly.
"No" is the proper and logical answer to this
question. Dyeing is a hair crime. In most cases
it destroys the light, shade and luster of the hair,
and usually - unless so subtly done as to be past
detection-it is a hallmark of vulgarity.
On the other hand, if dye you must, do not be-
tray the fact. And there are some quite simple,
obvious rules to be observed. If your hair is turning
gray, do not try to dye it over into peroxide blonde.
Turn it the kind of gray which is most becoming to you. The "pale and furrowed
cheek of age," presented with a gay accompaniment of coal-black or
golden-blonde hair is grotesque.
There is a disagreeable yellowish hair tinge which
results from the fading out of pigment in originally dark hair. It seems legitimate to correct this
turning of the hair, since the effect is distinctly
unbeautiful. Rinsing with an infusion of sage tea,
thoroughly saturating the hair, is in order here, for
darkening. Rubbing hair which has a yellowish
gray tint in the same way with a solution of bluing
will tend to give it a clear, silvery white tone.
In general, dyeing at home is a flat failure.
Dyeing at the beauty parlor, on the other hand,
exposes the hair to danger of chemical poisoning of
the hair roots. Remember, not color, but gloss; not
tint, but tone, is the chief beauty of hair!
BLEACHING
Bleaching is ordinarily open to objections similar to those made with regard to dyeing. Too often
it makes the hair look like sun-scorched hay, dead
and dry, lightless and shadowless. It also harms
the scalp and even the eyes. Peroxide of hydrogen
bleaches-none can doubt it - but if you use it long
enough it makes your hair brittle and crisp. And
there is a something about peroxide which usually
betrays its use. If you like the "henna" shampoo,
well and good; it will do your hair no harm. But
if you want to stick to the shade it gives, you will
have to shampoo frequently for it quickly wears off.
In connection with bleaching and dyeing, it is
worth while recalling that white hair, as a rule,
looks distinguished after middle age. It lends the
woman possessing it an aristocratic appearance.
FALSE HAIR AND TRUE
False hair heats the head, first of all. Bangs,
wigs and switches, puffs and curls are at best
makeshifts. Yet they are called for at times, and
often look like the "real thing" if kept in good
shape, and not worn too long. One serious objection against all false hair is the fact that it is a
disease carrier. If you wear it, treat it as you
would your own true hair. Brush it often, clean
it in gasoline (this, of course, you do not do to your
own hair) and dry in the sun and open air. To
make it glossy treat it to an occasional brilliantine
brush.
THE TRANSFORMATION
The transformation may be called the sublimated
"false front," false hair or the wig developed to its
highest pinnacle of efficiency. On a foundation
of fine net, it is a master wig which is made to suit
every individual type and condition of face and
hair. The separate hairs are drawn through the
foundation from the obverse side, and knotted
under the net. It is light, can be brushed or
combed out, its exact "angle of application" can
be fixed by means of a few pins, and at the back
it merges with the natural hair. It is valuable for
the bobbed who are turning long-haired again, and
who wish to conceal the clumsy appearance of the
new ingrowth. Those who can obtain no permanent wave, whose hair has fallen out as a result
of illness, can use it to advantage. Those whose
gray hairs are coming in too slowly for a good
general effect, yet so swiftly that they attract attention, find it a great help. Many well-dressed
women use the present-day transformation the way
they do the rouge pad and the lipstick for the
complexion-as a legitimate beautifier of the hair.
DRESSING THE HAIR
In general, wear loose hair nets. Do not let your
hairpins rust or your bone pins grow dirty. Prefer
curlers to hot irons for dressing your hair. Only
curl it every second day. Yes, if your hair is too
straight, you may use bandoline, but if your hair
is wavy by nature, the water wave will answer.
Never touch naturally curly hair with tongs or
curlers. If you want that "marcelled" look, there are comb sets (mounted on
springs) which will give it. In general, before you defer to some prevailing style, look at your own head, profile and
face. Dress your hair according to your own individuality of feature. Dress it
in accordance with its natural habit of growth. Better to look charming and attractive with your hair dressed in a style
naturally becoming to you, than to conform to some
fashionable hairdressing fad that is unbecoming.
Also remember that your dress should influence
your coiffure to some degree. Both must harmonize.
THE HAIR
AS TO BOBBING
Everyone, or nearly everyone "bobs" their hair.
Yet not everyone has the right face for bobbing.
Hence we are often shocked by the results we see
when the hair has been bobbed. Before bobbing see
if your face is a bob face at all. Then be sure that
you get the right kind of a bob. Any style of bob-
cut will do for the small-featured, round face.
More hair on the sides should be the watchword
of those with lengthy, oval faces. Though the
front hair-if you wish to be quite fashionable-
is usually cut long, the "baby face" type of girl
or woman can brush hers straight back, a la Pompadour. But women whose face beauties are of the
classically regular type need a part in the center
or on the side. Sometimes the hair keeps growing
low on the neck. In this case it is easy to keep it
trimmed close to the bob with the scissors. Incidentally, do not have your hair bobbed too short,
and do not let your bobbed hair get damp-its curls
will at once disappear.
THE HANDS
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NO hands, as one authority on female beauty has
declared, "reveal every hidden secret of the
soul .... in their shape, texture and color" ? We
doubt it. But they reveal themselves quickly
enough as beautiful or the reverse. What is
beauty of hand ? It is not so much the shape, just
as in hair it is not the color, which counts here.
Texture, skin quality and skin tint, the manner
in which the hands are used, the nails, these deter-
mine their beauty.
CARE OF THE HANDS
Care is what produces beautiful hands. If you
are not your own manicurist then visit a professional one every week. Protect your hands against
water by using gloves, rubber or canvas. Always
have a cut of lemon handy to the sink. Whether you
have a "psychic" or a merely plebeian hand, lemon
juice removes stains, whitens the skin and cleans
the nails. Vaseline, which keeps the nails from
growing brittle, also makes up for the drying effect
of hot dishwater. Dishwashing should always be
followed by a vaseline or cold cream application.
Always wear gloves when gardening, and use
vanishing cream on them before you expose them
to the bright sunshine or cold. A cold cream
application before retiring and cotton gloves should
accompany chapped hands into bed.
Red Hands.-When red hands are not caused by some trouble which calls for a
doctor's care, use a good rich, cream massage, for it will help circulation if bad circulation is the reason. A mere
surface redness may be treated by rubbing in some
standard skin food, after washing with hot water
and soap, and leaving it overnight. For sunburn
and freckles the remedies mentioned in connection
with the complexion should be applied.
The Ideal Hand.-The ideal hand has smooth,
tapering fingers. If you have square or knotty
fingers give them treatment for pressing out the
ends. A soft, white skin, a firm palm, firm and
supple wrists and well-kept nails and fingers are
all possible of attainment by manicuring, massage
and constant cleanliness. Hands should be neither
too fat nor too thin. Regular diet in the first
place, then massage and special exercises are correctives. This applies as well
to fat wrists. Re- member that, like the ideal face and figure, the ideal hand
is only relatively so. There is a different style of hand for nearly every style of
being, and there are as many different hands as
there are face beauties.
Gloves.-Tight gloves will make your palms per-
spire, give your hands a pudgy look, and, if you wear them right along, will
turn the hands red and mottled. Red hands often result from continual wearing of tight-fitting gloves. And-if
you do not chemically clean your gloves after each
wearing-your hands will grow dirty as soon as
you put them on. Gloves which are not perfectly
clean chap and coarsen the skin texture of the hand,
and at times cause infections.
ARE THESE YOURS?
A narrow palm is supposed to be a sign of a feeble temperament, one lacking
imagination. A fairly generous palm shows imagination and a nature capable of
greatly enjoying physical pleasures. Too large, broad and pronounced a palm
denotes egoism and sensuality. Hard, thick palms,
out of proportion to the rest of the hand, show
an animal nature, void of intelligence. Knotty
fingers mean originality, imagination and a scientific trend. Smooth, tapering fingers hint at aptitude
in art and sentiment predominating over reason.
Square fingers mean a sense of method and order.
Spatulate fingers are a sign of ability, activity, tact
and knowledge.
THE NAILS
A woman's nails should have home attention,
but this should be supplemented by occasional visits
to the manicurist. Else it is impossible to keep
them in perfect condition. You may use an orange
stick or an ivory pusher to push back the cuticle
from the nails (after it has been softened by cold
cream or vaseline), but do not cut the cuticle your-
self. This had far better be left to the professional.
If you use the professional cutting tools you may
easily cut and scar the surface of the nail, and weeks
may elapse before the scar disappears. If the cuticle
be cut constantly the edges grow hard and thick.
Manicuring.-Always see to it that your orange
stick is well covered with absorbent cotton or a
bit of silk. When you have shaped the external
edge of the nails with a fine pair of scissors, finish
with emery or a steel nail file. And always, before
beginning to manicure your nails, soak them in hot
soap water and cleanse with the nail brush. When
you polish the nails, use paste first, and do not
apply the powder till afterward. As a buffer you
can use the palm of the other hand. A thorough
"home" manicuring should be undertaken at least
once a week.
There are many very satisfactory nail pastes and
polishes on the market. A liquid polish is usually
best for the nails, all the more if there is no paste
foundation. Carmine, which gives a pleasing pink
tint, should be the paste used. Never use the
liquid varnishes which produce a sheen without the
aid of the buffer. They have a deteriorating action
on the nails themselves. You brush your teeth every
night. It is just as easy to devote a few minutes
to your nail cuticles as well.
The Nail Bleach.-A good and simple nail bleach
for use beneath the free edges of the nails is made
by mixing an ounce of hydrogen peroxide with a
quarter-ounce, respectively, of ammonia and lemon
juice. Before polishing the nails wash out the
bleach with hot water.
Keep your manicuring tools in good condition,
and throw away your orange stick as soon as it
roughens. For a buffer, if you do not care to use
your palm, buy a buffer frame and renew the
chamois skin.
Bruised Nails.-A hot water dip, with an over-
night application of antiphlogiston, is good for
bruised nails. The white nail spots which often
result from a bruise will fade out slowly of them-
selves as a rule. Their departure can be hastened,
however, by application of refined pitch and myrrh
in equal parts.
Nail-Bite.-The only real cure for nail biting is
not to bite the nails. The application of tincture of
myrrh is merely a reminder not to do so.
THE FEET
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TOO many women are inclined to forget that
they have feet until something happens to call
their attention to them. A beautifully formed foot
is as charming to the eye as a beautifully shaped
hand. Shoes, of course, have much to do with
preserving or distorting the natural foot outline,
and in this connection several practical facts should
be remembered.
First, that every woman's shoe should be broad
enough to let her toes rest flatly and naturally on
the sole. Second, that a low heel throws the weight
of the body on the instep. If you feel that broken
arches are a slight penalty to pay for tottering about
with the silly helplessness of a foot-bound Chinese
woman of the old type, by all means wear high-
heeled shoes. If you will have "French" heels-
and to the average man a woman looks ridiculous
in them, though politeness bid him disguise his
feelings-there is nothing more to be said.
Do not wear old shoes about the house. They
will make your feet shapeless. The dyes in cheap
stockings often run. If you have a slight skin
abrasion or a cut, you may get blood poisoning.
Hence pay more for your stockings (silk, lisle or
silk and wool) rather than risk infection.
FOOT MANICURING
Always cut your toenails straight across, using
a nail clip, or nail scissors. Ingrown nails always
result from cutting away the corners of the nail
which support its forward part. If you smooth the
nail edges with emery, a good deal of darning will
be saved.
FOOT AILMENTS
Calluses.-Calluses very often develop on the
sole of the foot. They also form on the toes,
where they turn into hard corns, or between
the toes, where they become soft ones, and are
capable of causing severe pain. Like bunions, flat
feet and fallen arches, calluses and corns are a
logical result of the wearing of tight or ill-fitting
shoes.
Good corn plasters give relief. There are also
good acid solutions for corns, but they must be
applied to the hard skin of the corn only. It is
best, however, to have a good chiropodist remove
corns, since he is able to take out their core. The
"vascular" corn (made up of small blood vessels),
which is less common, should always be taken out
by a chiropodist.
Bunions.-Bunions are beyond proper home treatment. They are produced by pressure
on the big toe, causing inflammation of the second toe joint. A preliminary
callus turns into enlargement of the joint, and, in many cases, motives
much suffering, and inability to wear a shoe.
If the shoe pressure which causes the bunion be
removed, the callus will disappear, but not necessarily the bunion. When bunions are long-standing
it is not always possible to cure them permanently. A bunion should at once be referred to a
chiropodist.
Ingrowing Nails.-Their origin has already been mentioned. Treatment should
consist in bathing in hot water, then raising the injured portion of the nail,
and inserting pieces of lint or absorbent cotton as an artificial support. Then
scrape the nail longitudinally. The lint or cotton support must be renewed from
time to time, until the nail has reverted to normal. If a proud flesh condition has
developed it will be best to go at once to the
chiropodist, instead of attempting a cure yourself.
Flat and Fallen Arches.-Both these foot
troubles are beyond any home treatment. Fallen
arches, once they have definitely dropped, cannot
be completely cured. Both diseases, in most cases,
result from improper footwear, high heels, and
shoes wrongly balanced, and each and every case
usually needs individual treatment.
Chilblains.-Chilblains, one of the most common
of foot disorders, can usually be cured at home. It
comes from cold or frost, and does not start in
feet which have a good blood circulation. Soaking
the feet in hot water, rubbing and massaging with
warm spirits of rosemary and turpentine, and exer-
cise are the remedies. Exercise, especially, restores the circulation, and
alleviates the redness, the burning feeling and the intolerable itching which are the
signs of the ailment.
FOOT PERSPIRATION AND PERSPIRATION
IN GENERAL
Foot Perspiration.-Perspiration we associate
more directly and more perceptibly with the feet
than any other part of the body. There is a reason.
There are more perspiration glands in the feet than
anywhere else on the body, save in the palms of the
hands. Daily bathing, night and morning, is the
best preventive of excessive foot perspiration. It
is well, when you are thus troubled, to add a little
alum to the water (it should be warm), and after
drying to powder the feet with boracic powder. Or,
if you prefer, use a soothing lotion for "feet that
are weary" and perspiring, made up of equal parts
of alcohol and witch hazel. Hot water, however,
is a sovereign specific for all sweaty feet.
Perspiration in General.-We are perspiring all
the time. Our perspiration glands are constantly
throwing off the waste matter of the body, and
bathing serves the double purpose of keeping the
pores open so that this matter may be discharged,
and removing it in order that no disagreeable odors
result from its presence. The soles of the feet, the
armpits, at times the forehead, chest, and neck are
perspiration centers.
Perspiration is usually not excessive when a
woman is in good general health, or when it is not
a result of violent exercise or unusual temperature
conditions. But when it is habitual and unchecked
it robs a young woman or girl of all that charm
of daintiness and appeal which is her right and
privilege. There is no odor more immediately and more resentfully noticed than
that of dried perspiration. It clings not only to the body, but to
the clothes. Perfumes and scented powders do not
hide it, and it always awakens disgust.
Frequent bathing, frequent change of undergarments and stockings, and a free use of talcum
powder or "odorono" are all indicated. Never
imagine that the use of talcum instead of soap and
water will do away with this unhappy scent. After
washing, always and invariably after washing, is
powder to be used. The poet has coined the phrase
"honest sweat." But there is no such thing as
"honest sweat" in feminine beauty's bright lexicon
of charm. Perspiration, especially at evening af-
fairs, dances, etc., steals away that natural fresh-
ness and fragrance of aura which should surround
woman.
OTHER ODORS
There are some natural feminine odors which
also need to be guarded against. When women
are troubled with certain disorders, there are apt
to be discharges. Those occasioned by leucorrhea,
for instance, often cause a slight yet perceptible
odor. Proper medical advice can easily recommend
a douche which will destroy any odor of this sort.
Menstruation, too, is often responsible for the giving off of a somewhat strong odor.
This can be almost entirely obviated by frequent warm bathing, repeated change
of dressing (no girl can be too particular in this respect!) and the use of good deodorizing powders and disinfectants.
BEAUTY AND CLOTHES
(Back to Top of Page)
OUR ideal of beauty, of living, actual beauty, is
no longer the nude human figure of the
ancient Greeks. Our beauty and our beauties are
clothed, in deference both to climatic and moral
grounds. Clothes, therefore, are an element and
an important one, in the physical beauty of modern
womanhood.
Since beauty of costume and headgear, in respect
to color and design, with reference to the human
form has already been exhaustively treated in an-
other volume of this series (see my "Color Harmony
and Design in Dress"), this chapter will confine
itself to certain important details not therein
contained.
THE CORSET
Good corseting means the right type and fit of corset used on the body for which
it is intended. Corsets should follow, never constrain the natural figure lines.
Of course, if the average woman could and did exercise her bust muscles
properly, the corset would be unnecessary. For no corset is, after all, the
ideal thing. Yet a corset which does not in any degree compress or cramp natural
movement, freedom of motion, and breathing, does much
to set off the figure to advantage.
Kinds of Corsets.-Comfort is the corset test. If
your corset is comfortable it is a good one. If it is
uncomfortable, it is not. And, speaking generally, the
low corset is the one to be preferred. It gives real sup-
port, both up and back, where support is called for,
and thus tends to obviate many "female weaknesses."
As for the large-busted, high-breasted woman,
she should never use a corset. What she needs is
a brassiere, a brassiere which must be fitted to her
very carefully, which must be a perfect individual fit,
so that her special bust requirements will 'be served.
Nor does the woman who has a girlish, slender
figure need a regulation corset. For her, in most
cases, a rubber belt, hung low and only lightly
boned, will answer every purpose. In certain more
violent forms of exercise, too, such as basketball,
athletics, riding or rowing, the combination bras-
siere and belt should take the place of the corset.
All that is wanted in these cases is a support which
will sustain without interfering. Never put on a
corset without readjusting the laces.
FOOTWEAR
Like the corset, the best shoe is the one built
along the natural line. Too large a shoe is as
dangerous as one that is too small. Aching feet
cause wrinkles, and thus directly affect feminine
charm, and aching feet are the result of im-
proper shoes. The toe of the foot is not pointed
normally, and the pointed toe is in reality less
beautiful than the natural toe line of the natural
foot. There may be occasions when you may wish
to appear (at a costume affair or fancy-dress ball)
in sandals. Then, if your feet have been cramped
and made misshapen by tight, narrow shoes, you
are lost indeed. But a well-formed foot in a sandal
is beautiful to look upon. The healthier the feet the
better they look.
COSTUME ACCESSORIES
Jewels, furs, glasses, are all details of costume,
broadly speaking, which should be studied in relation to a woman's natural physical charms. Small
hands should not wear many rings. Short fingers
should not wear long rings lest their width be
emphasized. Long, narrow hands, however, are
able to wear rings of any type. No stout, short
women can wear bead necklaces without seeming
shorter and stouter. Sallow necks and fat ones
are rendered sallower or fatter in appearance when.
"pointed out" by a necklace of snowy-white pearls.
Use bracelets, by all means, if your arms are
beautiful, but if not, do not wear them. And as
to glasses: Narrow faces look best in rimless or
gold-rimmed glasses; broad faces best in glasses
with dark rims. If you have a thin face and light-
colored eyelashes or eyebrows, gold-rimmed glasses with a horizontal bridge will make your face
look shorter and broader. Let your glasses match
your hair, dark rims for dark hair, and light rims
for fair hair. All these details are subject to the
same laws of the line for the figure which have
been explained in "Color Harmony and Design in
Dress."
THE PLASTIC SURGEON AS A BEAUTIFIER
(Back to Top of Page)
AS a rule the plastic surgeon is mainly called - upon to operate on
members of the theatrical profession, women whose actual, visible beauty is one
of the greatest assets in their convincing presentation of roles in which youth and loveliness
are a first requisite. Or, again, the plastic surgeon
comes to the aid of the grande dame, the ambitious society woman who refuses to
allow the passing years to undermine her established reputation as a beautiful
woman of the world. Plastic surgery is a very real, a very difficult development
of constructive surgery, and as such deserving of all
respect. But those among its exponents who have
a name charge large fees, and in general, any pro-
cess of constructive surgery is usually expensive in
money, time and suffering.
FACE-RAISING
One of the greatest actual triumphs of plastic
surgery is the "face-raising" or "face-lifting" pro-
cess, which does away with wrinkles, mouth and
eyelines and sagging cheeks by literally "lifting" off
part of the old face and replacing it. It is an in-
finitely tiring and somewhat painful process as a rule.
A cut some three inches long is made from the
temple to the ear. A triangular strip of skin is
removed. Then the skin of the face is drawn
together, and stitched carefully, so as to show no
scars. After three days have passed, the stitches
are taken out, and when the wound has healed
(usually within ten or twelve days) no trace of
them is to be seen.
The majority of women prefer and wisely so, "to
grow old gracefully," to rely on bathing, fresh food
and air, exercise and self-control to retain a living
charm of attractiveness and appeal, without the
more radical "skinning" processes of the plastic
surgeon.
OTHER PLASTIC SURGICAL ACCOMPLISHMENTS
The operation for harelip does not properly fall
within the province of the plastic surgeon. Any
good surgeon can perform this operation success-
fully. But often, where a nose is shaped in such
wise as actually to disfigure the wearer, the plastic
surgeon can work wonders. Bone grafting has,
especially since the World War, reached a high
level of development. It is common for the plastic
surgeon to "rebuild" the nose-and he can make it
either Grecian or Roman to suit the wearer's fancy
-by removing part of the bone, and inserting a
piece better calculated to please. Malformation of
the mouth, ear disfigurements, scars of every kind
(these usually treated by skin graft) birthmarks,
crow's-feet and 6aggy eyes, all yield to the touch
of his scalpel.
BEAUTY DURING MATERNITY
(Back to Top of Page)
THE outward and visible bodily condition
which precedes maternity is the last thing of
which a woman should feel ashamed. It is indeed
the sign of a glorious responsibility and should be
revered as such. At the same time, it cannot be
denied that an unavoidable distortion of the body
is one of the results of pregnancy, especially as it
approaches its term. But the mother who has been
thus blessed, need not, necessarily, "point with
pride" to her condition. True pride is modest and
does not try to make itself conspicuous.
TACT IN DRESS
That rotundity of the abdomen which cannot well be avoided, may largely be
tempered by training, moderate exercise, bathing, riding, golf, de-
creasing month by month. And what training will
not do, ready tactfulness in dress may go far to
dissemble.
The Empire waist, hung on tapes, is never an
unsightly costume, and is one which, because of its
looser folds, is especially well calculated to moderate
undue distention of the body for the eye. Since
at this time no mother-to-be would be apt to wear
corsets, there would be no unnatural emphasis laid
on the upper bodily protuberances, and the normal
curves would only appear to be slightly accented.
As the hips increase, month by month, the
shoulders and bust may be artfully made to appear
wider and broader. All that is called for is a little
ingenuity on the part of the dressmaker. Then,
the poise of the body sustained by general good
health, even the most critical eye will see nothing
repulsive in the general appearance of the form.
SPECIAL HINTS FOR THROAT AND BUST DEVELOPMENT
(Back to Top of Page)
THE throat and bust often call for development
because of a lack of natural fullness quite out
of keeping with what their natural lines should be.
There are two great bust and throat developers-
exercise and massage.
BUST DEVELOPMENT BY MASSAGE
If you are flat-busted, do not despair. A flat,
undeveloped condition of the bust-it is not a
natural one-may be remedied without great difficulty. The best way to do so is by massage. To
develop atrophied bust or neck muscles in connection with massage, pure olive oil or coconut butter
is still the best food known. Rubbed in with a
rotary motion with an upward pressure and a firm
upward stroke, together with the application of hot
and cold water alternately before massaging, oil or
butter will produce results. Incidentally, remember
to bathe the neck and bosom daily with clean, cold
water, and then produce friction by hard rubbing
with a moderately rough towel. (The towel should
not be too rough, lest it chap or irritate the skin.)
Then, even before the redness resulting from the
friction has vanished, rub olive oil into the skin
with the palm and fingers.
BUST DEVELOPMENT BY EXERCISE
In developing the bust by means of exercise take care not to lame the muscles of
the chest by over- exerting. A good bust-development exercise consists in
raising and lowering the arms, standing straight, then, pressing in the
waistline with spread fingers, tipping forward the elbows. This exercise
develops the muscles of the upper chest. Rowing - a sport in which girls are
rather unapt to indulge - is also an excellent bust developing exercise.
Natural twisting and bending exercises will
help develop flaccid neck muscles.
*********
DISCLAIMER: This information is not
presented as being from a medical practitioner and is for educational and
informational purposes only. The content is not intended to be a substitute for
professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of
your physician or other qualified health provider with any questions you may
have regarding a medical condition. Never disregard professional medical advice
or delay in seeking it because of something you have read.
Since natural and/or dietary supplements are not
FDA approved they must be accompanied by a two-part disclaimer on the product
label: that the statement has not been evaluated by FDA and that the product is
not intended to "diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease."
*********
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